The Highland Crossroads

I’ve been traveling around Nicaragua for almost two years now, and I’ve seen lots of small towns out there. But none are like this one.The main form of transportation for Nicaraguans is by bus. It’s pretty cheap to travel for foreign tourists. The most expensive ticket I’ve bought was from Managua to San Carlos, close to 7 hours, at about seven dollars. And that was because we took the nice bus.
On the road you always pass by dozens of tiny little hamlets whose population ranges to no more than a few thousand. Nicaragua is the least densely populated country of all Central America. The people that live by the roads are generally farmers along with a few small businesses that cater to both the farmers and the travelers passing through.
Then the bus pulls out onto the highlands. Here the wind constantly whips by at high speeds, bending trees, bushes and pedestrians as it passes. The hilltops are almost naked of trees, however the glens between them are full of forest that was sheltered from the winds.
All around the road are abandoned houses with missing walls and roofs. Sometimes you think that nobody lives here until you see some old woman hanging laundry between the destroyed structures. These “homes” often remind me of post-apocalyptic movies like Road Warrior where you see humans trying to cling to life in desolate waste lands.

El Crucero holds a special place in my heart. It’s a real world of extremes. Located on the Pan American Highway between Managua and Carazo, I have to pass it every time I go to see my wife and her family.

El Crucero holds a special place in my heart. It’s a real world of extremes. Located on the Pan American Highway between Managua and Carazo, I have to pass it every time I go to see my wife and her family.

Coming from the capital city of more than 1.5 million, the little road stop seems to practically be a ghost town. As I ride the little microbus up into the mountains, we pass by really nice views of untamed jungle. I always think that this is what Nicaragua would look like with more environmental protection.

Then you might look and see away from the road are huge houses, almost mansions that seem to dominate the hill they occupy. Kathya told me that many people with money choose to live outside Managua in small towns.

The poor people around them often work for those houses, washing clothes, cooking or caring for children. I literally saw one of these large houses next to a house made of black plastic sheets supported by tree branches. In no other place in Nicaragua have I ever seen such stark contrasts.

Nica Archaeology: The History of Lakes & Volcanos

Central America is a major hub in the world for amazing archaeology, and Nicaragua has plenty of history to add to the region’s cultural richness.


Before the coming of the Europeans, the Aztecs had begun to populate the area as a religious pilgrimage site. According to legend, a woman had a dream of a land filled with lakes and volcanoes to the south. She then led many Aztec explorers to settle Cocibolca and Xolotlan (Lakes Nicaragua and Managua).

The name Nicaragua supposedly comes from the Aztec chief that the conquistadors met, Nicarao, which means Aztec’s End.

Nicaragua played a major role in Spanish colonization of the New World. Granada is one of the oldest cities in the western hemisphere.

Outside the city is the country’s biggest archaeological museum. It’s still on my to-do list before leaving Nicaragua. However, I’ve still managed to see lots of really cool ancient and historical things in my time here.

The first that I visited was my trip to Ometepe. The museum focused on pre-Columbian artifacts from the island. Tons of domestic tools and ritual items had been found all over.

The guide didn’t speak much English though and I felt like she didn’t have much of a grasp on the native’s lives. She kept referring to the ritual pipes as something they used to smoke weed.

The museum wasn’t fantastic in the displays or information for guests. However they did have one artifact that surprised me, the world’s oldest dildo. I’ll just say this, it’s huge!

Another place that shows were the ancestors of the Nicaraguans left their mark is a river called Cara de Mono. The name means monkey face do to all the ancient petroglyphs on the rocks of the river bottom.

My counterpart took me out there one day after I had told him that I had a passion for archaeology. We hiked down to the river, about a 30 minute hike down some treacherous slopes and jungle.

When we got to the river we walked along until we saw the two dozen or so faces carved into the rocks. No one knows who put them there or why.

The third historical site Kathya and I have visited was the Casa Cultural of Corn Island. The island’s history is painted all over the walls, from the days of the natives and pirates to corn plantations and the modern lobster economy.

Our most recent journey through history was our trip to El Castillo. We went up the Rio San Juan to see the bastion of colonial Spanish power to protect against the real pirates of the Caribbean.

Nicaragua is full of history and the list of places that captivate that rich past is long. We have only scratched the surface. Kathya and I will keep exploring these sites and I hope that we can continue even after we leave Nicaragua as we go off into the unknown.

Up the River: Semana Santa in Rio San Juan

The paddles swished all but noiselessly in the dark brown waters as our canoe guide took Kathya and I up the tributary in search of wildlife native to Rio San Juan.

It was holy week and my fiancé and I had decided to visit a lesser seen area of Nicaragua. Rio San Juan makes up the Southwest corner of the country. The department is home to the last real rainforests of Nicaragua, as well as tons of history. Most people that pass through the region are on their way to Costa Rica, however they are really missing out on a true Central American gem.

                                                                                                                                           Kathya and I left Managua at seven in the morning on a bus bound for the department capital, San Carlos. The journey was a hot, packed bladder bursting ride through half the country. Our bus was a ruteado, which means they stop literally for anyone that needs a ride.  Before we even left the station, the aisle was full of people that were doomed to ride the whole way on their feet.

All the way there, the bus would stop to literally push more people on board. Just when we thought we weren’t going to make it, we pulled into the San Carlos terminal and were finally able to stretch our legs again.

Kathya’s family has friends from the church that we were able to call on to get nice prices for our hotels. We stayed at Hotel Carelys, which sits about halfway between the city park and the river front. The upstairs balcony offered quite a view of the roof tops and the lake beyond them.

After getting settled in, we went for a walk and found the cannon memorial that honored the victory of Rafaela Hernandez, 16-year-old girl, against a hoard of pirate ships that were coming up the river to attack Granada. Her father had been killed in the battle and she rallied the men to win. Legend has it that she fired the canon that sank the lead ship herself.

That night Kathya and I dined on delicious fish in one of the best restaurants in town, Kaoma. The service was surprisingly fantastic, and the food wasn’t left behind. I had the restaurant’s name sake plate, fried kaoma fish. The restaurant sits about a block away from the fishing docks so you know that fish was fresh. After that, we danced the night away in the clubs of San Carlos. But the morning would come soon and the pangas, small passenger boats, wait for no one.

This was only the beginning of our 3 night semana santa vacation. I couldn’t see a better way to start it off. The next day we headed out bright and early for El Castillo.

The day after our introduction to Rio San Juan, it was time to see the river that made this place so famous and important.

After a short stop in Los Sabalos, we approached the Devil’s Rapids as the Spanish name translates. They didn’t really live up to the name in my opinion, but we did have to slow down to a crawl so as to not hit the sharp rocks that would have left us gashed wide open.

Finally we arrived in the final destination, El Castillo. This is a tiny little hamlet where not a motor is to be heard by town ordinance. It is definitely the most secluded place I have been to in all of Nicaragua.

After checking into Hotel Victoria, we made arrangements for a canoe tour of a local tributary. But that was for later, the morning was for seeing the castle that made this tiny little pueblo so important.

We hiked our way up the hill and found the entrance to the fortress, La Concepción. After paying a small entrance fee we were free to wander the area. First there was a little museum with artifacts that covered the ages of the region. There were also pictures of the excavation and restoration of fortress.

Then it was time for the big show. Kathya and I were snapping pictures everywhere of the stone walls, the little courtyard and the cannons trained on the river, ready for another pirate attack.

When we made it back to the hotel, our guide was waiting for us. We made a quick change of wardrobe, I grabbed my long lens and we came out to the river front.

Rio San Juan is an animal lover’s heaven. The region has one of the largest bio reserves in the country, Indio Maiz. Everywhere, there are long necked cranes and other brightly colored water fowl. At the proper times of year, the river becomes home to many migrating birds of paradise.

The waters won’t be shown up by forests. Under the calm surface, huge tarpons swim alongside river otters. The river is also home to more frightening creatures. Our guide told us horror stories of child snatching alligators and fresh water bull sharks.

For the next two hours we paddled around trying to catch glimpses of some of these. We saw the basilisk also known as the Jesus lizard since it can run across water. We then saw another lizard that looked like an iguana crossed with a chameleon. For only a fleeting moment I managed to catch sight of one of the river otters, but as I focused my lens, it darted under the water and didn’t resurface near us.

In the shade of the groves, Kathya, our young guide and I sat back and sipped on ice cold coconuts, nibbled on fresh fruit and tasted the local product, handmade cacao fudge. Finally the waters became too shallow for us to make our way up any farther. We came about and began the forceful push to get back up the river to El Castillo before dark.

When we arrived, the lights were out but there was still enough sun to have dinner. So we sat down in El Chinandegano and had some fantastic jalapeño steaks and a few ice cold toñas to finish the night. Kathya and I sat in the dark after eating. We listened to the quiet murmur of the river and the less than quiet croaking of all the different types of frogs and toads.

The next day we had a quick breakfast and then made our way back up river. We spent a laid back day in San Carlos. We saw so much on this trip, but so much more was left out. As we got on the bus for 7 hour return, I remember thinking that we’re not done here.

Ride On, Gringo

In case you didn’t know, every Nicaraguan town goes crazy once a year. These giant, yearly parties are the fiestas patronales, and this year I got to be in it.

The fiestas patronales are related to the Catholic patron saint for every town. In some towns more than others, this bares more resemblance to pre-Christian harvest festivals and deity celebrations. There are processions, dances, bands in the street, but the main attraction is the horse parade known as the Hipica.

The Hipica is made up of horse enthusiasts from all over Nicaragua and even outside sometimes. They come to the town to ride from street to street, covering every barrio of whichever location they’re in, be it a tiny pueblo or even Managua.

The hipicos are the people who organize and ride in the parades. They elect a Novia de la Hipica every year. It’s similar to a festival queen like we have back in Texas with the watermelon queen, pecan queen, peach etc. My fiancé, Kathya, was elected in 2009 and traveled to several festivals representing her pueblo.

Toña beer, the unofficial beer of Nicaragua, sponsors almost every hipica event in the country. Their cantina float is always seen in the parade as the scantily clad Chicas Toñas dance to cumbia music and the cheers of many inebriated fans.

When it was La Paz de Carazo’s turn for the fiestas, I got a very rare opportunity - to ride in the local hipica! My fiancé’s family owns a horse that is trained for these types of parades. El Mayor, as he is called, stands about 16 hands and when he bounces up and down as he trots, he looks even bigger.

The hour came for me to mount up and join the throng of riders as they poured into our street. I was quite the sight, being the only gringo riding in the parade and maybe the only gringo to have ever ridden in La Paz.

The hipicas are a real phenomenon. All classes of society come together for the event as complete equals. You’ll see fancy dressed aristocrats riding horses worth more money than I’ve ever made right alongside poor farmers on their mules. But no matter, they toast their toñas with each other and raise their cans to the patroness of La Paz all the same.

After riding for over an hour, I got off my steed to the cheers of Kathya’s 4 and 6 year old nieces. The day was getting late and the heat of the afternoon sun on the street was becoming too much for me or the horse. And so this gringo hung up his hat and called it a day. 

 Good ride, cowboy.

Up Into the Cloud Forest

This is my second time to Selva Negra, the famous coffee plantation of Nicaragua. This time around, I wanted to see more of the nature in the area instead of the machines and production stages.

When you step out the back door,
you are DEFINITELY IN the Jungle!

Early one morning, all the guys from my group got up before the sun to make the trek through the forest. Our hot water hadn’t been turned on yet. But it wasn’t an issue. Nothing wakes you up at 5am quite like splashing yourself with 40 degree water when it’s only about 45 degrees outside.

We started out barely able to see the path in front of us. I tried taking pictures in the early parts of the hike, but I personally hate the flash on my camera since it makes things look so unnatural.

We crossed a little stream several times as we switched back and forth up the slope of Selva Negra’s surrounding mountains. The ascent was much steeper than any trail I’ve casually hiked in the states and much less maintained. This gave me a great feeling of real adventure as we trudged upward.

My hike was cut short, however. After making quite a climb, my ears began to throb horribly. I must be accustomed to living at the normally low altitude of the Atlantic coast.

I began my slow walk back down feeling rather defeated, but the light of the sun had returned and was giving a new life to the forest around us. I could really appreciate the groves of ferns and brush in all their green glory.

 There were giant trees all around that I had failed to truly size up when I first walked by. Many of these trees were being covered by another parasitic tree called the strangling fig. Like the name suggests, it wraps around a tree, using it for support and nutrients until it kills its host and takes its place.

Finally as I got closer to where we started, I heard a commotion taking place in the canopy. Switching to my telephoto, I was able to snap some great shots of family of howler monkeys as they were waking up and preparing to wake up the rest of the mountain with their calls.

Can you feel the humidity?