Up Into the Cloud Forest

This is my second time to Selva Negra, the famous coffee plantation of Nicaragua. This time around, I wanted to see more of the nature in the area instead of the machines and production stages.

When you step out the back door,
you are DEFINITELY IN the Jungle!

Early one morning, all the guys from my group got up before the sun to make the trek through the forest. Our hot water hadn’t been turned on yet. But it wasn’t an issue. Nothing wakes you up at 5am quite like splashing yourself with 40 degree water when it’s only about 45 degrees outside.

We started out barely able to see the path in front of us. I tried taking pictures in the early parts of the hike, but I personally hate the flash on my camera since it makes things look so unnatural.

We crossed a little stream several times as we switched back and forth up the slope of Selva Negra’s surrounding mountains. The ascent was much steeper than any trail I’ve casually hiked in the states and much less maintained. This gave me a great feeling of real adventure as we trudged upward.

My hike was cut short, however. After making quite a climb, my ears began to throb horribly. I must be accustomed to living at the normally low altitude of the Atlantic coast.

I began my slow walk back down feeling rather defeated, but the light of the sun had returned and was giving a new life to the forest around us. I could really appreciate the groves of ferns and brush in all their green glory.

 There were giant trees all around that I had failed to truly size up when I first walked by. Many of these trees were being covered by another parasitic tree called the strangling fig. Like the name suggests, it wraps around a tree, using it for support and nutrients until it kills its host and takes its place.

Finally as I got closer to where we started, I heard a commotion taking place in the canopy. Switching to my telephoto, I was able to snap some great shots of family of howler monkeys as they were waking up and preparing to wake up the rest of the mountain with their calls.

Can you feel the humidity?

Mercado, Massaya, and Mom

Mom and I looking out over the volcano.

Taking pictures of the lagoon

We found some traditional dancers in the street.   Mom and Kathya got a picture with them.

Singing for The Virgin

An Altar to the Virgin Mary, built outside this home 

Hundreds of people were dashing about in the street to get in lines. Statues of the Virgin were in the front rooms and patios of many houses surrounded by caroling children.December 7^th in the Catholic calendar marks the Conception of the Virgin Mary. In Nicaragua, homes open their doors to waves of singing families to honor the Holy Mother. If you’ve wanted to get a good example of how much Roman Catholics from Latin America venerate Mary, you’ll never find a bigger show than Purisima night.

Last year, I was living in a very Protestant town at the time of the celebrations, so I never really got the chance to see how big a party it was.

Kathya and her family went all out in
getting gifts to give away to the carolers.

Preparations began months in advance. My fiancé’s family home is one of about a dozen houses that host the events in her tiny Carazo town. Everywhere up until the date, her parents were buying huge amounts of small plastic containers and filling them with candy and small toys. An entire room in her house was being occupied by the volume of Purisima gifts.
The days before had little celebrations in some houses. One night we went to one and a traditional Fireworks Bull was lit. The game is that someone runs with the bull trying to get sparks on the others. Children, mainly boys, run up to try and get as close as possible before having to run away from the rampaging fire beast.
Finally the day came. My mom flew in from home the night before, so she was able to share in the big event. We spent the morning preparing the last bits of the decorations and adorning the Virgin’s altar in patio. By night fall, the children had come in from all over and outside of the town. They would come in in groups to sing in front of the statue and afterwards they would shout, “Quien causa tanta alegría?” To which all would yell, including my mom, “La Concepción de María!”

I thought it was odd that people were receiving tons of cups, so I asked Kathya why they use them. She explained that the tradition began in the city of Leon. There, the people used to hand out gifts in tiny colored baskets. Some places still hold onto this basket tradition.

“We buy the cups because it’s more economic.” Kathya said. “They are also very useful in the house. The people really like them.”

Finally, the night won over the festive singing and the people migrated back to their homes. I’ve heard a lot of volunteers refer to Purissima as the combination of Halloween and Christmas.
Personally, I saw something that deserves to be in a category on its own. It was much more about religion than Halloween and very ritualistic compared Christmas. Purisima is a purely Nica celebration, and not one to be missed.